Version 1.16 is being rolled out, so stay tuned while Google approves the build 😉


2016.10.11 [Jeroen] Refined length of prediction interval
2016.08.24 [Jeroen] Split ZOE into ZOE Q210 and ZOE R240 for battery prediction

All the hype has been over the new R90 an Q90 and there has been written so much about it, that we didn’t feel the need to add to that. Of course we would love to get our hands on a ZOE with a big battery, because we probably need to change at lot of graphs and most certainly the battery prediction model.

Speaking about the that, there is a release upcoming with major improvements in the prediction model. As a consequence, the car selection in the Settings screen will change to also distinguish between a Q210 and an R240, as the latter will top charging at 22 kW even when it is connected to a more potent charger. If you do own a R240, please do check the settings screen after the next release. Also, expect the Q90 and R90 to be included too pretty soon, which will use the exact same mathematical model, but with a bigger capacity. We have no idea if this is correct and time will tell.

Actually, we don’t even know if the ’90 models speak the same language on the CANbus, but we do expect that to be the case. Stay tuned. As always, once we’re ready to roll, we’ll publish an update note here, drop a new release in the play store and publish an APK file.

Well, we had to discuss it one day: charged timing and the TCU. While I am not a proponent of doing that based on the car’s (TCU) logic, there are many drivers using this and it DOES have quirks. One was a UK base driver that had it’s timed charger not only stuck (the icon it was on timed kept re-appearing even when he disabled it), it even refused to charge when it was inside the charging time slot. That is basically a 100% disabled car.

Pull/push the F31 fuse seems to do the trick. documentation says 10A, Body Control Module (which controls most non-drive-train related functions), Telematics Control Unit. It is the second row counting from the left, second fuse counting from the bottom up in the fusebox in the cabin.

Another driver advised to carefully pry open the R-Link bezel, and disconnect the white connector to the TCU unit. Reconnect after a minute or two and with some luck, the TCU is as if it were reborn.

My guess is that a disconnect of the 12 volt battery would do exactly the same, but I cannot confirm this. That sure is easier and avoids the risk of breaking plastic hooks. Open the bonnet, end disconnect the minus cable boom from the battery, that is the one not having the red fuse box on top.

My advice would be to try pull/push F31 first, then the 12 volt battery, and if it doesn’t work, go for the white connector.