Resetting the charger from an error situation

Most of you know the situation. For one reason or the other, you end up with the dreaded RNOD (Red Nose Of Death) and the dash indicates “Battery Charging Impossible”. Worst case that can leave you stranded, and best case you end up with a disabled cruise control / speed limiter and a that blinding orange light in your face. In most cases this is caused by a grounding fault, and these are often edge cases. The natural response is to simply try again and sometimes this works, but very often it doesn’t.

Unfortunately, the CC/SL will only return after a successful charge, however short. There is not much we can do there (maybe reset the BCB or LBC through CanZE, I never tried).

There are two things that you really need to know, however strange they might sound.

First, remove the charger cable, lock up the car and wait until the car completely powers down. You can sit in the car if you want. Pay attention to the power down sequence. After about 3 minutes, you will hear a soft click and the little LED in the lock button on the top side of the R-Link will go off, as will the auxiliary power. Then, after about another minute or two, you will hear a second, soft relay click. Then, wait another minute. Then CANbus will go to sleep, but there is no indication for that, just wait out that minute. Don’t touch a thing during this wait. Of course you can simply walk away and time a minimum of 6 minutes, but the key is: no cable, everything locked. After this, the computers, and possibly a few big capacitors in the BCB will be in a cleaner state and charging will often be possible. If there is no real grounding problem, you should be able to start the charger normally. I should stress that simply driving to another charger and not going through this “rain dance” usually does not solve the problem.

Second, in some rare edge cases after above procedure, everything will seem to be fine, no errors, but still, the charging process itself will just not start. In the rare cases I had this, I had walked away and retried without opening up the car. Just opened it’s nose, connected the cable, activated the charger. If this happens, unlock the doors. This will wake up all computers, the dash, etc, and that usually makes it realize that indeed it should be charging. The reassuring “clunk” from the charger and the “click – wheeeeeee” noises from under the bonnet will hopefully make you breathe again.

Another problem might be that by accident a scheduled charge is set. So, if the car refuses to charge, look for that little clock icon in the top row of the dash display.

Finally, as was mentioned in one of the comments, a long press on the start button may help, but I cannot confirm this.

43 Comments on “Resetting the charger from an error situation

  1. Thank you very much for the article. I’ve had the same problem, but luckily it has not persisted and have not needed this procedure, but just the other day a question about precisely this came out in a spanish forum. I’ve translated the article for that forum ( and inserted a link to this site there. I couldn’t find any license for the website, only the copyright, which in fact prevents me from doing it. I hope you don’t mind, but should you have any objection I’ll delete my post immediately.

    • No problem to copy at all! If it can save only one person from disaster, I am happy 🙂 Can you add a link to your post on that forum please?

    • PS: I added something about copying posts in the “Q&A”. Thank you for mentioning that.

        • Thank you! I hope we find out more. I never had the idea a long press helped, but your post will spread the word, and I will put it in the Dutch forum too.

  2. Hi every body.
    Very good article here!!! I have trie it all…
    A special “hi5” to CanZE Team, Bob, Jeroen, Henrik, Jesper, Chiristoph and other team contributers!!! as my countryman fellow Alex Moleiro cooperated on huge data research for the CanZE. The team reported that he also woked hard analising data to move forward on this unique FluenceZE Spy project.

    That inspiry me to gain more confidence knowing better this lofty EV car. Even thus, before experiece it or adquire it I was already amazed with it. Since then I have decided to go ahead with exchange of a diesel car and start learning to better explore and take good advantage of my “new” blue energy Fluence ZE Dymamic Renault on the city mobility and saving energy, thanks Alex, and you all at the CanZE Team.

    Some thing more about the FluenceZE… One day I would be happy if some of us could upgrade the European Fluence ZE to the near 380 kms autonomy with Samsung batteries and medium to fast charge, and implementing the quick drop battery operated with the simple spanish robot that manualy operated, exchange daily lots of Fluence Samsung Batteries in Soulth Korea. That became a reality since 2014 with some government incentives becaming actualy the best seller EV car in this country.

    Back to CanZE and Zoe…

    I would love to share my BCI experience our 2nd family EV recent Zoe Q210, and the perception of the Renault ZE post sale process , applied to thiis well knowed car mobility disabling inssues.

    As we can understand, the BCI is a unpleasant extra that allegedly cames from serie, as we are finding on almost every delightful EV Zoe ZE ,in this recent R240 or in the other older version Q210 motor.

    The “Battery Charging Impossible” info displays as an Operating Fault Messages visible to the user at the Dashboard of the On Bord Computer Trip and Warning System.

    Mysteriously this message is not shown on any of the 127 pages of the RENAULT ZOE ZE – DRIVERS HAND BOOK, inclusive unlisted in the long chart of example Fault Status Messages, except for the accompanied of the spanner warning light.

    Neither as I know, you can find a reference to the BCI Fault message on any Renault Public Reports, especialized EV Media, Consumer Associacion, Homologous Entitys or even on Especielised Media.

    However, alot of reference to this recorrent intermitent or permanente disabling fault ,that can allegedly turn inoperative your Zoe!!!

    This inoperative charge capability can hapen by surprise in certain circumstances, for some minutes, hours, days and even months

    Yes that is right, even months eventualy when you decide to leave your Zoe under the post sales Renault protocol thar aparently can vary from service dealer to diferent dealer ,delaying solution and satisfying answers in some cases for weeks or months.

    Those inoperative weeks or months , as reported in public between Zoe owners at charger points and others enconter places, as in clubs and foruns in a more discret or anonymous case stories, in some cases result in motor or battery or other components exchanges ,that to the owner/consumer are presented as the best moment solution. But it is omited any detailed description of the fault cause/ effect that the client can take in good consideration for a future best caution use of the Zoe.

    At this moment am short in time, but in a week or less will come back with the short version of the story of my awareness for this kind of BCI quiz…

    Sorry about my mess accent, it is genuine,out of practic, no word processer here

    Thank you all!
    ZE Regards
    Manwell S.

    • Thank you Manwell for the thumbs up. We appreciate it.

      We are aware of BCI’s and most of the times what I have described is helpful, as nothing is broke, it is a failure situation, not a failure component. That is why I posted the main article.

      Having said that, sure things do break down. Motors, BCI’s, inverters, batteries. It is a learning curve, and I commend Renault for the 5 year warantee on the entire electric drive train, which, I cannot say otherwise, they have always lived up to.

      Finally, I disagree about people not being vocal. The ZOE drivers I meet are pretty forgiving, but also clear on the things that happen or what they dislike. You can easily find “horror stories”, usually by disgrunted drivers. It’s really not like these cars are stranded by the dozens. Which doesn’t mean it isn’t an awful annoyance if you ARE stranded. Maybe I misread your comment, so please correct me when I wrong: You have a ZOE, mabe have had a BCI, but were never stranded, right? All happy after a 6 minute reset? So I don’t understand really the suggestion about long repair times?

      In the meantime, ZOE is th best sold BEV in Europe. I guess they are doing a few things right 🙂

      • Hi Jeroen, you all at CanZE Team deserve more than just thumbs up !!!

        As I am short in time let me try to resume the comment about my perception of long BCI repair times.

        Yes after the 2012 35.000kms Fluence ZE, we decide in August to have a 2013 7.500kms Zoe Q210 as a 2nd EV car. Unlike Fluence ZE that I followed here mainfully whit Alex Moloeiro posts, I did not had the same time invested befor having the Zoe, and were not aweard about the BCI stuff.

        So back into BCI…

        1st BCI was in the second week use, with the car having about 8.000km
        (500kms on 43kW-A/C and 10A domestic charge)
        Of course that for a first time BCI happening in a Service Station in a midle of the hightway it was something stressing…
        But…”All happy after a 6 minute reset” – I like this expression !
        Like a claim, it shoud be on Zoe Drivers Manual really !

        2nd BCI was in the seventh week this time having around 12.000kms
        (the same charge routine except on the day of BCI fault, that I tested and used the new arrived 480v 32A charge cord on public charge points near home, tring tho keep full charge as we were going to make more than 200kms that day to Algarve.
        But on the last try on Emel paid car park near Colombo shoping in Lisbon, the BCI fault flashed red on ZE nose, and I feel that strange sensacion that the rest of vacations days became compromised… First I get out of the that paid park I used for the first time.
        Then with the 1st BCI in mind, went tho a near by a 43kW-A/C rapid charge where every thing allways worked rigth.
        Tried your “All happy after a 6 minute reset” but no sucess this time … may be try in another point like Ikea 7.6 kW charger that never tried with Zoe, this time I carry the cord with me, make some shopping add a family dinner and read lots of posts as yours at CanZE Team.
        About 2 hours later with out open doors tried your protocol… Unfortunatly did not work.

        At that moment I realized what was a long BCI fault ,and also that last week family holidays in Algarve were starting to be jeopardized by a Zoe long BCI fault.

        Arriving home and after leaving the family and holidays bagadge, when to the near charge point and find there a twin Zoe that already finished is charge.

        In the meanwhile the owner, Bruno was arriving from the soccer match near by, and I asked him if add any experience with BCI fault.
        Yes, he said, two of them. And how did you resolved the faults, I asked.
        He said, I received the car new 0kms an the first BCI appeared on the first week at the end of the day and next day every thing was ok as never happened.
        More or less just like my case, I said, but at the moment I have a long BCI fault since morning, what do you think?
        Well, he said crossing is harms, I remenber that on the 2nd BCI I had to call for car assistence and I was just with 7kms left on battery reserve when the trailer arrived end went to Renault service. At the time I was owning the Zoe for about 1 month.
        And how long did they take to resolve the fault? I asked, thinking how coud I rearrange my family last week vacations.

        Renault service just delivered me the Zoe after 1 month… He said.

        What? I interrupted. Did I eard it well? One whole damn month? I asked again! Yup, he said, do you want to try my cords and try again?
        Bruno was very helpfull beside having to go home after the game and had to takecare of his daugther sleeping time. He also give me is OBD Konnwell and let me try to reset and query commands to try clean any errors on CanZE. We verifed that my oldest Zoe was in better battery healt than is new Zoe what was strange as he dont make many kms.
        We decided to talk later and give back is OBD near Oeiras where the rapid charger is located.

        So, as I was with a nice battery charge because were preparing to make more than 200kms to Algarve, I decide to make the more economic driving possible in the next days till I could resolve the BCI fault with out going to give the Zoe to 1 month Renault Service.

        As I am short in time, I can say now that since the 2nd BCI fault apeard I counted around 6.000 minute , 96 hours or 4 days as you prefer to count, till we were “Happy to go”, and my first msg was to Bruno as I went o Oeiras to fullcharge the 10% left battery…

        Good news, Bruno said!

        I have made a full apointment off all moements with the car including the 1st day full stop and the last day with an 1/2 a day full open doors to interior clean when we add a new fault error ” Check ELECTRIC system”

        After that the spanner dash light turned out and I jumped of so HAPPY thinking that the BCI could definitly gone…
        With the 240v 10A domestic cord connected to power I tried to plug it on the Zoe and the red nose did not pop up !!!
        It was charging finally…

        Imagine if it went to Renault service? Please share your thoughts about this…

        This Zoe car is someting! But the BCI…

        Sorry time to go,
        Thank you all for your time, and please keep in touch and give us your comments…

        ZE Regards,
        H.Manwell S.

        note: I am not used to post here, so how can I edit this post to correct english thanks

  3. Excuse me for waking up this 1 year post…
    I’m having same problems as the poster described.
    Playing 6 minutes on and off are partially working.
    Car is w/o warranty. Went to the garage. Will cost like 1k€ multiplying by 5 for my currency. A lot!!!

    The tip he gave me. Is to use a scanner in order to identify error /fault EVC-D044 and just clear it.

    My question is. Please
    1. I can’t seem to query anything on the CanZE with my current OBD 2$ device.
    2. Which scanner ( lowest price please ) are you recommend ? In order to have the ability just clearing the faults.


    • You really need a OBD that has the correct version, otherwise you won’t be able to communicate with the car.

      I think there is actually no low cost scanner for the Zoé …

        • DTC part is a bit shaky. Forget everything dealing with the BCB, won’t work, but you should be able to read the EVC.

          To actually clear DTC’s you need to follow the on screen instructions about the start button and gear.

  4. I am sorry, I know nothing about the Fluence and I don’t know if the procedure for actually erasing DTC’s is the same. It’s a fair assumption that the commands we give the car are correct, but to set the mode that the car actually accepts them, I guess only the dealer can tell you.

  5. Hi, tried the above to clear DTC faults, (I have an “Electric Fault Seek Help + the orange spanner display) I get the F41214 error any ideas please? the garage is pretty crap at sorting this out (yes it’s a renault garage)

  6. Interesting comments. My Zoé ZE40 R90 experienced these “charging not possible” /”red nose of death” errors when it was first delivered new, end of October 2017. The following is my experience of all that. I kept a log in order to have sufficient proof of phenomenon before going back to my Renault dealer because the first time I stopped by them it charged perfectly straight away so they didn’t believe me. I didn’t have CANZE at the time.

    The results of my log were not entirely conclusive but I could draw some observations; note at the time (November), average travel temperatures were mostly 7-10°C and charging by slow “Flexi” charger was always done after the evening 40 minute 60 Km return home leg:
    – refusal to charge happened in about 50% of cases
    – refusal to charge was much more likely to occur after the car had been driven fast (a lot of 120 instead of 90 Km/h) or if the ambient temperature was above 9-10°C
    – refusal to charge never happened if the car had only been driven for a short time or if it was really cold, say 2-3°C
    – leaving the car locked and asleep for 30 minutes usually solved the problem (that didn’t work just one time).

    Maybe it needed to “cool” down, who knows?

    Anyway after being presented with clear evidence, Renault had the car in for a service and they reloaded/updated the OS compared to the factory install. Everything has worked perfectly since. They still kept trying to give me some story about the earth status saying it was worse when the motor was “hot”. I didn’t know what to believe there. Maybe it’s true, However, Zoé has been charging ok in all weather and after any driving treatment for almost 3 months now and without any problem. So apparently solved (my charger green-up plug hasn’t changed either).

    Incidentally, another observation I had and which has now happened twice is when Zoé does an OS update OTA (as shown by the R-Link). When that fails, as it did twice, it totally zaps the maps database. Everything has to be re-installed via R-Link. Renault Multimedia online help tells me it’s a know problem. Have any of you experienced that?

    • OTA only updates R-Link, not any drive train functions.

      Seems like the dealer upgraded relevant ECUs in your car which solved (most of) the problems.

      Unrelated, but I would not consider the flexicharger a decent permanent solution and would advice you to have a type 2 chargpoint installed, if that’s physically possible.

  7. Dam BCI. Sitting at ecotricity Rapid Charger in Pease Pottage on the M23 in Sussex. Having just pulled in on.. ‘—-‘ miles plugging in hoping for a quick topup so i can go about my day tomorrow and the dreaded BCI strikes again. I rememberd this post and followed it to the letter and further leaving the car locked, unplugged and off for 30 minuets, get back to the car, only open the charge port and try charging. Got a quick ‘Weeeeeee’ then it clunked off again. So I tried the magic waiting dance again, but alas, same story. So I’m trying it for a third time now, but I’m about to over stay my free parking time and with nowwhere else to go… Bit stuck really. Will have to get it towed again and delivered… where? Don’t have home charging, this is my closest charger. Niiiightmare

    • Hi Adam,

      Did you find if this was an issue with your Zoe at all? I had a similar case recently where I just pulled up to a charger on – – – and during the 2 hours waiting for recovery waited a good few times of it being locked to reset and clear and just kept having a quick few seconds of the Coil whine (“Wheeee”) and kept then having blinking Red.

      • Hi Ryan, yes it was an issue, it never managed to charge at the station. I managed to drive that night ti another 43kW Rapid (Polar) and tried the same voodoo but to no avail. I then really risked it and drive to the next closest charger, a 22 kW Pod Point which…. WORKED! i had to leave it to charge so i walked around the night time streets (probably getting some odd looks) for an hour and a half but it did charge and carried on charging. Didn’t have the same issue again as we then had a 22 kW Tesla destination charger fitter at my office and so I haven’t charged in public since.

        All was well for a while until about a month ago.

        I went to drive to the shops on the weekend so I get in the car, press the brake, press start and “STOP Electric Failure DANGER” warning on the dashboard comes up. And the result after getting the car flatbedded to the garage, it needs a new battery. Of course this was done under my battery rental but not a word of what actually went wrong etc but could the issues be linked?

        • Yes that certainly can be related. If one cell fails, the other in the pair will get twice as much current when charging and it will develop a much higher voltage very quickly. The LBC will notice that and as soon as it’s out of specs (which happens much faster on a rapid because of the much higher current), it cuts the charging.

          It might (MIGHT!) have charged on a very low power level, but that’s all water under the bridge and would not have helped anyway.

  8. Does anybody has a solution for my BCI problem? This started in December. When the BCI message appeares the heating turnes off. It looks like if we turn off the AC and heating then after a few minutes of driving the BCI message dissaperes. Does this problem has a link with the tempreture of the battery? My battery is under 75% and I am waiting for a new one. The charging is also possible after a few times on and off and waiting. I also see batterycells in the app that are green but most are blue. Does this mean anything? The Renault dealer can’t find the problem.

    • A BCI should clear when you do a next successful charge (however short). CAn you be a bit more specific on when the BCI appears? Before or during charging?

      If you can, please post screenprints of the battery voltages screen you describe, the software version of of the LBC and what type of car you have.

      • Thanks for responding. I have a Fluence from 2012. The LBC version is 58BHC 4 05B 00000. The BCI only appears during driving. Usually when the battery is aprox half empty but sometimes also earlier. The message sometimes also disappears during driving and then the heating turnes on again. When the BCI is still going when I stop driving, I wait for a while and turn on and off the car a few times or drive a short distance. Then the BCI disapeares and I can charge whithout any problem. The BCI never apeares during charging. I now also saw a Isolation fault level 1 message on the Spy app. This is gone now after charging normal. I can not make a picture of the screen at the moment. This will folow.

        • I have the same problem with my Renault Fluence. BCI appears after approximately 5km of driving (same distance every time). The car is also from 2012…
          AC and heater is not working when BCI error present.

          To make the BCI error go away; I need to lock the car, then unlock, turn the key two steps (but without engine on), and leave the car parked for 5 to 20 mins.
          This enable charging again but is of cause not a sustainable solution.

          Did you find the root cause for the BCI appearance in your case?.. Or a better solution?

        • We know close to nothing about the Fluence unfortunately 🙁 While systems are somewhat comparable, they are certainly not the same. I know the Fluence’s battery is the same make as the first LEAF, but I don’t know if the surrounding electronics are the same (probably not).

          In the ZOE, I have never seen, or heard of a BCI pop up while driving. I am afraid we can not be of much help here 🙁

          I don’t think you can post pictures in comments on a wordpress site. You would have to host it elsewhere and paste a link here, but knowing what you wrote, I honestly think we can’t assist.

  9. I wanted to contribute my 2 cents of knowledge on the BCI error.
    I have a 2014 Zoe Q210 and when fast charging yesterday (was my 3rd session in the day) i encountered the dreaded error.
    So my solution was to drive to a 7kW pole nearby, pop the hood before connecting any cable and with my trusted tool kit disconnect the 12v battery (both leads) and then leave the car to deplete any residual charge (the nose light goes out).
    This basically will reset any DTC error, erase all the mileage stats and give you a clean start to charge.
    After the reset i hooked up the cable and charged briefly on the 7kW pole to then move to another fastcharger and successfully get a full charge.
    I remember using a similar trick when i got an “Electric Fault Seek Help” error in the past (i obviously charged the 12v Battery before reconnecting).
    It surely is a cheaper DTC reset technique than buying an OBD tool capable of doing just that.

    • Crude but as it seems effective! (Never do that with a modern Audi. It will remain completely dead after you reconnect the battery, I am not kidding!)

      • Where do you think I learned this trick 😉
        Some long hours spent with the VAG tool and got locked in the car once having to climb out the booth.

  10. So a little update, I have been experimenting around the bci error a little. Mainly on the possibility of using an earth link to fool the measuring system. But that is still work in progress. What actually gave me some really good results was cleaning up thoroughly the pins in the charging receptacle up front. I used a polishing compound (be aware not the highly abrasive one but the finishing one), a battery power drill (apx 700 rpm), a hex socket adapter with enough space inside for a pin to slide in it, a few pieces of microfiber and alcohol to clean up after polishing. I tested the end result on a charge pole that would usually go for about 1 or 2 kwh worth of charge and got instead a full charge with no issues. Hope this might help people experiencing this same problem.

    • Sounds like a good method. Did you by any chance have a broken inner flap hinge so there would have been more than usual ingress of water?

      • No, but this is a used Zoe so I don’t know it’s full history. One thing I did notice was that the pins where quite dirty and oxidated in those points that do not participate in making the electrical contact (mainly the tips). This is an indicator of a possible layer of oxide on the pins main body, and it was confirmed by how dirty the microfiber was after polishing (dark grey residue).

  11. Hello Zoe driver, I’ve also have a Problem with my ZOE. It starts with “Battery Charging Impossible”. The car was not able to Charge (I tried on different stations) and I brought the car to the Garage.. The dealer told me, there is also an Isolation error in the Motor.. and caurrently nothing works an i have also an “Motor error”… Meantime I habe Canze an i can read the errorlogs but I cant clear the DTC’S..

    I have read the nstructions .
    1. Enter key card
    2. Gear to D.
    3. Wait 6 sec.
    3. Gear to P.

    But it dont work.. 🙁
    HAve you any Idea? Thanks a lot in advanced

    • Hello Helmut,

      I have been driving the ZOE Q210 for about 1.5 years now. I have presented the BCI problem to other garages, including in Hamburg. No solution.

      However, I have made the following discovery. It helps tremendously if you turn off the air conditioning and heating before you try to charge.
      So: 3 to 4 minutes before you want to charge, turn off the air conditioning / heating system completely. With this trick, the ZOE then charges without problems. Not quite full, but it charges. (At 85% or 90% is usually the end).
      Why this works, I do not know. Maybe because the charging unit “Chamaeleon” is installed together with the climate unit. But it works a little better with it in everyday life.
      It still has dropouts now and then when charging. In 90 percent of cases, however, this procedure leads to success.

      Air conditioning off, then charging! 🙂

      Translated with (free version)

  12. Hi,

    I am experiencing this issue with a used Q210 still in 2020. Has there ever been an official recall from Renault on this issue?
    Do you guys know any solution that technically solves the issue? Putting ZOE to sleep is a first aid solution but not really what I am looking for long time.

    Thanks and all the best,


  13. The “recent” firmware (LBC >= 0854), by now 3 years old, solved most of it. You better check with the firmware screen.

  14. I’m on the new LBC firmware (0854) since 2018, which made things considerably better. However recently I noticed that at public chargers (11 kW) the car sometimes stops charging around 95-99%, which is frequently (but not always) accompanied by a blinking red LED (RNOD). This wouldn’t normally be much of an issue. However a while ago on a warm sunny day after the previous incident occurred a few times (I really wanted it to be as full as possible for the longer trip), then when charging from a low SoC on a rapid charger (43 kW Allego charger near ‘t Harde, NL) it cut out after about 60% of charge. It completely refused to charge from that point on after trying several times. Even on another rapid and after disconnecting the 12V battery, doing the rain dance and what have you. Then trying a nearby 11 kW charger again it worked again. Must be something to do with number of subsequent failures and perhaps the temperature of some component. I’m thinking of building a little “charge limiter” which can tem ZOE to limit the requested power from the charger, so I don’t have to find a 11 kW charger to resume my drive. Even better would be to find the root cause of the issue though. @jeroen any ideas on this one? I have lots of CanZE screenshots if needed.

    • Apologies for the late reply. No ideas at all! seems basically a fault. I’d have a (good) dealer have a look at it. As for limiting, you cannot do that on a 43kW charger with their tethered cables, but some people carry a one phase cable to reduce 22//11 kW to 7/4 kW

      • Thanks for the reply! I would expect it could be done in software, e.g. the car could send a “hey I want up to 11 kW” signal to the charger, and it would have to oblige according to protocol. I just need to find the time to dig down into the E-CAN to check out what the comms looks like on there. I’ll make sure to share what I find with the CanZE crew.

  15. Hello dear community,

    I have been driving the ZOE Q210 for about 1.5 years now. I have presented the BCI problem to other garages, including in Hamburg. No solution.

    However, I have made the following discovery. It helps tremendously if you turn off the air conditioning and heating before you try to charge.
    So: 3 to 4 minutes before you want to charge, turn off the air conditioning / heating system completely. With this trick, the ZOE then charges without problems. Not quite full, but it charges. (At 85% or 90% is usually the end).
    Why this works, I do not know. Maybe because the charging unit “Chamaeleon” is installed together with the climate unit. But it works a little better with it in everyday life.
    It still has dropouts now and then when charging. In 90 percent of cases, however, this procedure leads to success.

    Air conditioning off, then charging! 🙂

    Translated with (free version)